Down on Cackleberry Farm
At the beginning of July, we took a trip through the Oxfordshire countryside to meet our friends, Neal’s Yard Dairy at Cackleberry Farm to find out what makes these eggs so good…
On the counter
Metabief, Franche Comte
Sancey Richard are one of the smallest makers of Mont d’Or in France, and their attention to detail is second to none. While many Mont d’Or makers no longer wash their cheeses, Sancey Richard’s are given a regular wash in brine, giving their rinds a distinct pink colour, and making them a truly washed rind cheese. Similarly, the cheeses are wrapped in stout spruce bands, which lend a distinct pine-y resinous flavour to the paste. The result is a cheese of real character, the rich sweet paste given a refreshing twang from the spruce.
Like all Mont d’Ors, these cheeses are strictly seasonal. They’re on our counters from October to March, so make the most of them while they’re here.
Jonny & Dulcie Crickmore
Raw Cow’s Milk
Named after a Norman French knight, the remains of whose castle overlooks the farm, is made to a Brie de Meaux recipe, and is full of the rich, mushroom and cabbage flavours of that cheese, but it often retains a chalky core with a sharper, more acidic flavour that proves a refreshing contrast to the vegetal paste under the rind.
Highfields Farm, Staffordshire
Raw Goat’s Milk
Innes Bricks start off life in Staffordshire, but they leave home early to mature in the arches of Neal’s Yard Dairy, who are responsible for developing the delicate geotrichum rind which gives the cheese a gentle honeysuckle aroma.